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1991
It started in Sydney, as Flavours of North India
Before Newcastle there was Coogee. Sylvia and Kuldip opened Flavours of North India in 1991 and grew it into several stores across Sydney, all built on the same idea: proper North Indian cooking, sold over a counter, at a price people could pay on a weeknight.
Those years were the workshop. Kuldip cooked, listened, and changed things. What sold he kept, what did not he reworked, and the menu you read today came out of that decade of feedback rather than out of a cookbook. The Sydney stores were later sold. Paramjit Atwal, who manages Hamilton now, has been with the Sanghas since those first Sydney kitchens and comes from the same part of India as Kuldip.
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1998
Indian flavours arrive on Beaumont Street
The move to Newcastle was a gamble on a city that had no real Indian food to speak of. It paid off in about a week.
Butter chicken went out on the first day and has never been beaten since. The chicken is marinated overnight in yoghurt and spices, skewered, cooked through in the tandoor, then folded into a gravy cooked down slowly. That is still exactly how it is made. No MSG went into it then and none goes into it now.
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The menu
Dishes went on because people asked for them
Kuldip cooked for the room in front of him. Someone would ask for something from home, and if he could cook it well he put it on the board. Then someone else asked for it, and it stayed.
The northern dishes came first, the curries and the tandoor breads and the biryani, tikka masala and korma and rogan josh. Then the south arrived: dosa cooked to order on the griddle, sambar, coconut and curry leaf and tamarind sitting alongside the cream and cashew of the north. Two very different cuisines out of one kitchen, which is not how most Indian shops in Australia are run.
That is why the board today carries twenty two curries on display with around twenty more made to order. The samosa pastry is rolled on site. The naan dough is made on site. The dips and the sauces are made on site, every day, and the meat and vegetables are bought fresh rather than frozen.
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The sweets
A mithai counter beside the curries
Indian food does not end at the curry, so the sweets counter went in next to it. Laddu, barfi, gulab jamun and kaju katli, the things you would find in a mithai shop in Punjab, made for people who had never been in one.
They sell two ways. By the piece, to somebody picking up dinner who wants something at the end of it. And by the kilo, to families the week before a wedding, an engagement or Diwali, who order trays at a time. The second kind of customer is the reason the catering side exists at all.
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The drinks
Nobody planned for the mango lassi
It went on the board as something to cool the heat of a hot curry. It turned into a drink people order on its own, in summer, with no food at all. Kids drink it. Tradies drink it. It outsells things it has no business outselling, and it is blended properly, not poured out of a carton.
The fresh juices came directly out of that. If Newcastle would queue for a lassi made the right way, it would queue for juice pressed the same way, so the juice side went in and the counter got busier again. Between the lassi, the juices and the sweets, plenty of people now walk in without ordering a curry at all.
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2011
Making room in Hamilton
By then the queue on a Friday night was running out the door and onto Beaumont Street. Takeaway alone could not hold it, so Raj's Corner Hamilton was extended in 2011 and the dining room came with it. People could finally sit down with the food instead of carrying it away. Same kitchen, same recipes, more chairs.
Customers were driving in from across Newcastle and, as the Newcastle Herald reported, from as far away as Tamworth.
They drive, at times, more than 30 minutes just to get to us.Sylvia Sangha, Newcastle Herald
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Catering
Because the wedding orders would not stop
The families ordering sweets by the kilo were the ones who asked first. If Raj's could do the mithai for the wedding, could it do the dinner as well? The answer kept being yes, and eventually it became a proper arm of the business rather than a favour.
Raj's caters weddings, engagements, birthdays, anniversaries, christenings and corporate events across Newcastle and the Hunter. Menus are built per event rather than pulled off a list, dishes such as dosa and biryani go on for catering that are not on the daily counter, and a bain marie can be supplied where a hall has no kitchen. It is the same food from the same stoves, cooked at a scale that feeds three hundred.
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Today
Still on the corner, still not franchised
Sylvia could have franchised the business a decade ago and chose not to, on the grounds that a name is easy to sell and hard to get back. Her words to the Herald were "it's about doing it properly. It's not about franchising."
So the cooking has not moved off Beaumont Street in more than twenty five years. Sylvia oversees the business, Paramjit Atwal manages the Hamilton store, and one customer who moved to Melbourne still turns up with an empty freezer bag to fill before he drives home.
Order the butter chicken. It is the same one from 1998.